Food & Drink: Tonkotsu

What a lot of noodles there are in those beautiful Tonkotsu ramen bowls, the iconic soup from Japan which has had London slurping since it first opened behind the Tate Modern in 2007. By Gilly Smith

This pit stop is the latest of Brighton’s mid-market feasting stations, scooching into the wide pavements of New Road where Polpo once served its small Venetian plates.  This is all about home-made noodles; Tonkotsu’s motto is “If you don’t make your own noodles, you’re just a soup shop”,  and are made in three different types in-house daily using mid-century machines imported from Tokyo. And there’s plenty of ‘em, soaking up the made-from-scratch broth of high welfare pork or chicken, simmered for hours and topped with all sorts of ggodies. Try the roast pork belly, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, spring onions, burnt garlic oil and a seasoned Clarence Court egg.   

We loved the Eat the Bits Chili Oil and the vegan Mushroom Miso ramen which we suped up with a spicy scotch bonnet hot shot. On the side, the cucumber with mustard seeds and cauliflower wings were winners and will please the crowds of Brighton vegans demanding super tasty and stylish dishes. The service is great, the design Brighton-made and even the beer comes from local UnBarred brewery. The Sake was made specially for the restaurant by the Tsuji Brewery in Okayama which is very cool indeed.

Why then does the delicious chilli oil and soy come in unnecessarily carbon heavy plastic pots and the prawns have to travel all the way from India when we live on the coast?  

Photographer: Paul Winch-Furness

20 New Road


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Mon – Sun: 12.00pm – 10.00pm

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