Category Archives: Features

Gull About Town: May 2025

The Gull has been hiding her beak under a wing lately as climate change soars spring temperatures into summer-style heatwaves, and the hoards head to the beach.  Her vision of Brighton and Hove barbecuing locally caught fish on the promenade, whetting the whistle of the tourists and locals alike into the finest selection in the country of restaurants serving locally, seasonal, ethical meat, vegetables, fruits, dairy is dimming by the year. Money talks, and it seems that the human foodie is less discerning than your average scavenger, having very little beef about the source of a steak, however it spent its life. Look at the recent clutch of awards celebrating the Best of Brighton to see where the votes go. It’s enough to make a Gull very glum indeed.

But there’s work to do, and up on that thermal hops your Gull for another swoop around the restaurants which go the extra mile to serve the unparalleled flavour of uncaged meat and to seek out the fruit and veg grown on organic or regenerative farms which put life back in our soil: Amari, Dilsk, Flint House, Little Fish Market, Furna, Palmito, 64 degrees, Wild Flor, Oeuf – just some of the best of the bunch doing the right thing for your Gull’s wider wildlife community.

A quick ask will sort the meat from the cack. The kitchen crew at The Reading Room, led by former Junk Food Project chef, Karen Lloyd appears to have taken a leaf out of your bird’s (bestselling) A Gull’s Guide to Scavenging. Its latest supper menu is plucked from the best of the Sussex larder, and your Gull could barely decide between the early asparagus with wild garlic mayo or confit Pig Cheek with broad beans, apple, caper & lovage dressing. Ever the pro, she manages to find room for both.

 Flying west down the beach, she swerves onto Food Street where the high priests of hospitality at No No Please, Ewan and Mel tell her that they buy their meat from Rogmans Butchers in Hove, all of which is free range, apart from the chicken which is grown in barns. A quick pop around the bins for a little pick at the belly pork leftovers, and your Gull soars up the West Hill happy in the knowledge that her porcine pals have enjoyed a happy life.

Hovering for a quick peck at the brand-new Canopy on Dyke Road before the sun sets, she finds the King of Cuisine, Michael Bremner himself swapping his kitchen blow torch for hammer and saw as he puts the final touches to his latest offering in her very own backyard. 

His first Brighton restaurant, 64 Degrees still sets the gull world a-squawk 13 years after it opened in The Lanes, but your Gull is still mourning the more bird-friendly outside seating at Murmur where genuine food fans could watch the sunset while the local pest control hoovered up the occasional pickings on the patio. 

Now the former home of Coggings and Co, Atelier Du Vin and Brighton Cocktail Company, , this ‘community café’ in Seven Dials, Michael’s home for 12 of the 20 he’s been in Brighton, will be bringing ingredients from 64’s suppliers to Dyke Road. 

Your Gull has watched many a shifty cocktail bar coming and going in the time it takes to catch a thermal, but this co-working, dog and baby friendly cafe with yoga in the garden and plants by Between Two Thorns, interiors by the good folk at Café Rust and coffee from Skylark, the non-profit which supports coffee farmers, all served up on tables made from the recycled wood yard just down the road, might be just what the neighbourhood ordered. As the sun sets over West Hill, your Gull whistles her way home, beak happily now under wing, dreaming peacefully that her vision of Brighton may just come true.

Gull About Town: September 2025

It’s Tourist Time and your Gull’s favourite season when we birds get busy and clear the streets of the best leftovers we can find. Leaving the chips and kebabs for the teen gulls, your Gull has swooped down to Seven Dials in search of richer pickings at pop ups at The Canopy and Puck. 

Now, the gulls were all a-squawk when word got out about the closing of 64 Degrees with its superior snacking opportunities for the more discerning scavenger. So, to find the Great British Menu winner himself popping up at The Canopy in our very own Dials this late summer was greeted with the loudest of caws. This man can cook! Your bird is waddling in his wake as he plans his next restaurant experience later this year. 

Popping up at Puck, Marc and Amy at Sedap are following the London trend of excellent Malaysian street food with tofu satay, nasi kerabu and oyster mushroom rendang giving a modern spin on the traditional fare. Your gull can report that the kuih dadar, the rolled crepe infused with pandan juice and filled with grated coconut in Gula Melaka is the kind of dessert to make a bird’s spirits soar. Expect regular pop ups there throughout the autumn.

With a taste of the East in her beak, your Gull catches a thermal over to The Lanes, stopping briefly to sniff out Patio, the new deli/wine bar/café/’cool place to hang’ replacing Grocer and Grain on Upper Gloucester Road. Opening at the end of September, it promises to be a much-needed tasty space to meet by the train station. 

Landing in Ship Street, your Gull finds Bookie, founder and executive chef at Namo Eats at The Eagle and junior co-owner at No No Please has just finished a stint at The Sidewinder and opened her own restaurant, Namo at 24 Ship Street. On Thai small plates with seasonal ingredients woven into the dishes, the menu is largely from her home in the north of Thailand and reflects more of who she is than she’s been able to show under the wing of the previous establishments. Your Gull was particularly pleased to hear that she plans to bring her Thai cookery classes to Ship Steet, making it a place where people can enjoy good Thai food and share stories of the culture and roots behind it, just as Great Uncle Gulliver used to do for us young gulls on the back of his travels. 

A sated bird, full of excellent scraps and meaty stories of culture and enterprise, your Gull glides home against a setting sun, tucking a happy head under a weary wing. The tourist season may soon be winding down, but the scent of Octoberbest is already nestling in her nostrils and feeding her dreams.

Gull About Town: July 2025

Once upon a time, not so long ago, it was a clear view along the beach from King Alfred to Millionaire’s Row – as the gull flies at least. But these days, there’s an increasing selection of landing stages for an ageing bird as Hove Beach fills with eateries, and happily, the pickings are getting better and better. At Rockwater, we may have found that all that glitters isn’t necessarily the gold that we gulls demand from our leftovers, but the Fish Shack with its fresh, locally caught fish and seafood, both raw to take home and freshly prepared, is excellent news indeed. 

But it’s Babble that has had the gulls gathering; Sam of Slam Tacos is in charge of the menu and buying his meat from Barfields Butchers and much of the rest from Shrub, names that fans of the Gull About Town will recognise as a mark of excellence.  The menu may sound like it’s luring in the festival crowd with its pork shoulder tacos, its fish tacos, charred broccoli tacos and a double slam burger, but when the dairy comes from Northiam, it’s a sign that there’s more to this pleasuredome than meets the bird’s eye.

Catching a thermal east to Tourist Town, an aroma hits your bird’s beak from a distant memory. Great Uncle Gulliver, a legend in the gull community for his tales of travel way off the migratory routes, would have the young gulls rapt as he told of roadside cafés and street food where birds had only to perch patiently for the most delicious leftover rice and noodles.  Could the spirit of his stories have really made their way to Brighton? So it seems; Roti King in Ship Street was inspired by the same roadside cafes in Ipoh, Malaysia, and is now part of a chain of cool restaurants in London. With main man, Sugen Gopal’s first book out, and a massive following on Instagram, it looks like the famous fat noodles, Char Kway Teow, and the rotis, hand-stretched in full view of customers, spun and served with a little fish kari, will be thrilling more than the gulls.

And so, to home, to West Hill where your gull again catches a waft of something new. The Sussex Yeoman, once a legend in its own lunchtime, has been recovering slowly from COVID. Your bird has been watching THE former hotspot for Sunday roasts try to recover for years. So, when the evocative aroma of beef and Chianti ragu, slow-cooked for hours began to rise from its kitchen, she formed an orderly queue with her feathered friends to get first pickings. Yup, it was the unmistakable taste of Pasta Evangelists, the finish-at-home, restaurant standard food delivery service, one of the clever inventions to emerge from that stressful period of fight or flight. 

Waddling up the road to her favourite rooftop to watch the sun set, your gull pops over to say goodnight to her favourite shopkeeper and pick at some of the avocado leftovers outside. But wait… Can it be that West Hill’s iconic community leader, the godfather of last minute green peppers, the best tap dancer in the neighbourhood has left the building! And what’s this? Shelf after shelf of… (whisper it) crisps? Your gull, suddenly finding a second wind beneath her wings, joins in with the crowd of gulls, a-gaggle with tales, some taller than others perhaps, of child-level chocolates at the counter. And we’re not squawking about those made directly with cocoa growers in Ghana and the Ivory Coast. As she bends her head under her wing, she sighs sadly. One claw forward, she reminds herself, and dreams of a new tomorrow.

Cooking The Books with Gilly Smith

“What podcasts are you listening to?” Have you noticed we seem to be saying this more and more. It’s the new box set conversation. I love the excellent journalism and shared stories I hear on my dog walks and right now the top of my ‘Spotify’s most listened to’ list is “Cooking the Books with Gilly Smith”. It’s been my companion every Thursday morning for the past two years and not only has it changed the way I shop, cook, eat and understand the world of food production, it’s ignited my connection to the taste memories that have been part of my life. No other podcast has had such a profound effect on me as this. 

This summer “Cooking The Books” comes to Rockwater in Hove as Gilly will be hosting Yasmin Fahr, Rachel Roddy and Melissa Hemsley, three of the most exciting food writers around throughout July who’ll all talk about life, food and their latest books.

Gilly is a Sussex based writer and journalist, but her reputation in the food world is international. Immersed in a lifetime of food journalism she started podcasting at Delicious magazine before striking out on her own. 

“Podcasting is the ultimate in democratising women, people of colour, gender, sexuality and age. We take our subjects and we prise them open to find so much more than the traditional media would ever commission. It’s powered by passion rather than sales meetings. We do what we love and it’s catching!” So powerful is her belief in the format that she has also written a book “How To Start And Grow A Successful Podcast” and has made online courses on the subject too.

“Cooking the Books” won The Guild of Food Writers Award for best pod last year and this year only missed out to the BBC production team at the Food Programme at The Fortum and Mason Awards. Not bad for someone who’s the  consummate solo producer – every episode of “Cooking The Books” she researches, books, records and edits herself. There are no adverts, no sponsors. 

Melissa Hemsley describes Gilly as “hugely respected by the old guard of the food world, but also massively loved by the up-and-coming due to her boundless energy for encouragement, mentoring and change-bringing”. Hemsley says that “Cooking the Books” is the podcast she’d choose first out of any list to appear on. She calls it “genius” because it honours the author by taking the listener on a deep dive into the stories, recipes and writing often reading segments back the authors they’d almost forgotten, the refreshing excitement of hearing your own words being read out loud for listeners to enjoy. 

Along with Hemsley on the roster will be the Guardian food journalist and author Rachel Roddy and New York Times food writer Yasmin Fahr, who recently relocated from New York to Menorca, attracted by the slower pace of life.

Yasmin thinks it’s Gilly’s authenticity and insight that make the podcast is so enjoyable. “These conversations can give people a ‘head start’, bringing people into their confidence around food and cooking. Gilly uses stories of personal experience because she knows that the most effective way to get people to change is through stories.”

And that’s very much Gilly’s mission – to change the world. She’s concerned about climate change, the food industry’s broken industrial systems, child food poverty and our lack of connection to the soil and to each other. A good cook book will always be the antidote to ultra processed food. A good recipe will always have you handling the ingredients rather than popping a silver processed tray in the oven. And that’s what she wants us to do as a result of listening to the podcast. Shop locally, think about how the animals have been treated, share a meal and a story with family and friends as often as possible. 

Away from “Cooking The Books” Gilly works with the Food Foundation to help bring awareness of food poverty especially of our children living in scarcity. Melissa Hemsley is one of the voices that Gilly’s encouraged to come on board and Melissa credits Gilly with encouraging her to flex her energy in the more important parts of the food world like being part of this kind of campaigning work.

I asked Yasmin what she is hoping for from the live shows. “Food people tend to be good-hearted people and I’m really looking forward to hearing what questions come up. If there’s a chance of one thing landing that gives someone the ability to try something new, it’s all worthwhile”. 

“I hope there’ll be a real hobby club atmosphere” says Gilly, “people coming with all kinds of different takes on a subject, it always surprises and delights me”. 

l Rockwater, Western Esplanade, BN3 4FA 01273 091166

Tuesday July 2 6.30-8pm Yasmin Fahr 

Tuesday July 16 6.30-8pm: Rachel Roddy

Tuesday July 23 6.30-8pm: Melissa Hemsley

Tickets £15 from CookBookBake, Hove’s indie specialist cookbook shop and include £5 off the author’s book.

Tickets from https://www.gillysmith.com/event-list

Climate Cafe

Changing the Game: How Brighton’s companies are leading the way to a greener future. Gilly Smith reports

I’m waiting for Ella Byass from Marketing at the new Red Roaster restaurant in New Road on a warm afternoon in November. The nice young waiter asks me where I’d like to sit, and I choose the quieter terrace outside as I’m about to record Ella’s interview. He fiddles with a remote and pops off to get my coffee. He’s turned the heating on. Outside.

It’s not a great start to an interview about Red Roaster’s hard-won battle for B Corp, the global accreditation that aims to shift the behaviour, structure and very culture of capitalism by exacting excellence in every inch of a business. As Ella tells me that they’re one of just 7000 companies in the world to be given its stamp of approval after its rigorous three-year assessment process, I’m still trying to square the heater issue.

Red Roaster has been one of Brighton’s most sustainable companies for years; its coffee roastery in Kemp Town is the only organic coffee roastery in the South East, and its beachfront café, Lucky Beach which won the Food Made Good People’s Favourite Restaurant award in partnership with delicious. Magazine in 2017, has been collecting gongs ever since. 

Membership of the Sustainable Restaurant Association keeps the company focussed on sourcing responsibly, which includes supporting farmers who employ good animal husbandry and contribute positively to carbon capture with regenerative farming techniques to keep the soil healthy. The SRA keeps its members up to date on how best to trade, use energy and keep its carbon footprint low, but also how to interact with the community and treat its teams. 

In Brighton, they’ve switched all of their delivery vehicles to electric or bikes, and are the largest employer of learning-disabled adults in Brighton. Ella tells me that 75% of their produce for their Brighton cafes are sourced locally; its cider comes from Whistler favourite, Trenchmore Farm which operates its own micro circular economy. Its organic eggs are from Rookery Farm in West Sussex and most of its seasonal produce are from Shrub Provisions, one of the increasing numbers of sustainable food hubs working with regenerative or organic local farms for next day delivery to restaurants.  And where it can’t buy local, it supports the farmers’ own communities; Red Roaster’s coffee beans come from Brazil, Honduras and most notably from Rwanda where they run most of their social projects, including building schools and medical centres. 

Led by early sustainability adopters, Diana and Mike Palmer, Red Roaster’s B Corp badge is only the beginning.  “With B Corp, you have to constantly show how you’re improving” Ella tells me. “They’ll come back in three years’ time and say, ‘Right, this is was great three years ago, but what have you done since?’ We can’t just be like, great, we’ve got the B Corp. They’ll want to know how we’ve reduced our carbon footprint even further. They don’t allow you to use it as a green washing technique.”

As businesses try to attract and retain late millennials and Gen Z into a post Lockdown workplace where all the rules have been thrown out of the pram, sustainability is one of the most popular keywords in the search for employment. According to the Institute for Advertising Ethics, 64% of millennials will no longer work for a company that fails to show a strong corporate social responsibility. The data also shows that Gen Z are so concerned about what their peers think of their employers, that their choices are increasingly those that can prove they’re doing the right thing.

It’s an amazing story, but how will anyone know while the only connection the customer has is with a waiter who turns an outdoor heater on without even asking? Ok, so it turns out that the heaters are solar powered, but the point is how would we know?  A brunch with a mate a couple of days after our interview revealed the waitresses weren’t acquainted with the company line either, and the bacon was from Ireland.  

“Our sustainability story is on the menu”, Ella tells me.  Now, come on; who salivates over the food options, ponders over the cocktails and then scrolls through to the last page to read the diversity pledge? We’re Whistling big time for Red Roaster, but maybe by the time the B Corp team come back to check, their waiters will be wearing the t-shirt.

Of the tiny clutch of B Corp companies in the world, we’ve got quite a handful in Brighton. And if you’re thinking about booking your next holiday, you might like to know that one of them is a sustainable travel company which says that it’s not really very cool to fly at all. “There is no denying the fact that if you fly long haul, it will make up a very, very significant proportion of your year’s carbon footprint,” says Nick Pulley, founder of Selective Asia. You’re not even going to get a virtue signalling offset plan as part of the cost of your flight at Selective Asia.  “With an increasing number of reports casting doubt on the benefits of carbon mitigation, we don’t have the necessary clarity and confidence on this approach that we would ideally like,” proclaims the website. 

Instead, the travel agency works with Brighton-based carbon calculating company, C-Level which works directly with environmental scientists and communities on the front line of climate change to develop conservation projects that can provide locals with an income. This is not so much about mitigating the impact of travel, but actively supporting local economies to thrive.  Call it distribution of wealth.

“Travelling with a tour operator like us means introducing clients properly to the cultures and steering them away from the heavy footfall area”, says Nick. Encouraging them to eat on the streets and in family-run restaurants rather than in the larger hotels means shaking the hands that feeds, while keeping the tourist spend local. Travelling in-country by train not only avoids the carbon heavy short hop flights, but gives the traveller a chance to see the landscape and feel the distance.  

Eco-tourism is about understanding impact, and we’ve got to stop flying if we’re to save the planet. But if you’ve just got to make that trip of a lifetime, make sure it helps to secure the D’ering-Dibru Saikhowa Elephant Corridor in the northeast Indian states of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh or support Lone Buffalo, the Laos community project giving free English tuition, sport and creative skills tutoring to local kids.