Mention the name Wolfox among the chattering classes of West Hill and Seven Dials and a hush descends. Who are these people? Aren’t they something to do with the Mafia? Brighton is no stranger to property tycoons with interesting connections, but Wolfox, according to those who’ve heard the rumours – or maybe that should be “those who spread the rumours” – is like some kind of hungry animal stalking the streets by night, sneaking into empty shops and restaurants whose throats were ripped out in Lockdown, settling in and serving up the city’s best cup of coffee to an unsuspecting passer-by. I could stretch the metaphor and suggest that Fabio Lauro, sporting a fetching apron in the kitchen of his latest opening, Fumi in Circus Street does have some pretty big teeth, but hey, this is just a fairy tale. Isn’t it?

“Sorry about the heavy breathing,” Lauro – Mr Wolfox – pants, “but I’ve just been running.” I daren’t ask from what. We’re here to talk about Fumi after a stunning meal the weekend before. I’d met him in the kitchen, sous cheffing to Reuben Waller who’s “been around” but cut his teeth with the legendary Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico back in the day. “Yeah, Gavroche too”, he tells me. He had taken me on the “culinary adventure” offered on the Carte Blanche, an opportunity to see what Fumi is all about, a trail through the aubergine and enoki mushroom tempura, tuna and salmon nigiri staples, and a silky belly pork in red wine and soy sauce. It turns out that the signature design-led fine dining experience is very fine indeed, although they could get their Wagyu from Trenchmore for better local creds. Still, they do have their own hydroponic farm.

Lauro’s breathing has calmed now and he’s very happy to tell me about the rise and rise of Wolfox. “The main expansion happened during Lockdown when quite a few landlords asked us to take some of the properties which tenants had left. So we took over one in Kemptown, then one in Prestonville. Our desire was never to expand everywhere but to be present within the communities. We weren’t even paying rent. They were just given to us. That was the thing”. I try to dismiss the image of Marlon Brando purring into my phone and replace it with one of Brighton’s biggest employers swooping in to sort out a crisis. Damn; same thing.

Fumi is the elegant big sister of Kusaki, the brightly-coloured Asian plant kitchen in Preston Circus which has cleverly scooped up the vegan pound and raised the game in town. Fumi, all gold leaf walls, massive doors and Insta-happy coffee grind table tops, reused and crafted in Lewes from the many Wolfox café leftovers, takes design to a new level;  Lauro, the Studio Six designer who began in Milan, leaves his pawprint on all his restaurants and cafes. This one, though, is dedicated to the memory of his brother, Andrea, who died in a tragic accident two years ago. “It’s definitely not another Wolfox. It’s just Fumi”, he says.

Leading the Circus Street development, although it didn’t really mean to, Fumi is already luring locals in for an Italian coffee and pastry in the morning before dimming the light sculptures by evening for a full-on Japanese fine dining experience. “They were really struggling because it was so big. They wanted the best coffee in town, so they asked us what we could do. But restaurants are our main business, and we wanted to get back to that.”

Circus Street got more than its coffee; the massive glass rectangular building, screened Japanese-style, sits stylishly next to Grand Parade, and brings a little Zen to the area. “We’re doing slow-minded coffee in the morning, and bento boxes for lunch.” I ask about his connection to Japan and he laughs. “I’m from Lake Como. I’m not going to open a pizza restaurant, am I? I love Japanese food; it’s clean for your body if it’s done very well. You have to have balance in life.” 

l Fumi Restaurant, 1 Circus St, BN2 9AS  01273 064516