As winter approaches, it’s a time to batten down the hatches, put a head under a wing and settle in for the dark nights ahead. It’s not a good look for most restaurants, but wait, what’s this? Your gull has spotted has spotted a new dining experience coming out of hibernation.
Amari is the reborn Amarillo, the partnership headed up Mo and Ali from Halisco and Michelin-starred former Murmur chef, Ian Swansain who has been feeding his delicious morsels for private hires and pop ups while simmering ideas for his new Spanish diner in Baker Street. Sourcing local fish and British pigs from farms where they’re positively encouraged to run around and have a good time, the vibe is definitely Latin. With excellent pickings for the finer palate, the Serrano and Iberico hams will come from the best Spanish producers while his Halisco fans will still find his legendary tacos on the table. The culture though is more modern British; the suckling pig will have had a longer life than its local Spanish equivalent, and Ian will be proudly breaking down the beast to make sure there’s zero waste.
Hovering over Hove, your gull finds herself in a renovated Victorian terrace with best friends, Lauren Mullany and Ben Smith, also staying at home with their monthly lunch club, The Sunday Joint. Word had already reached the ears of your gull about this lovely little supper club in May this year; the young gulls in the family, disillusioned with work and lack of work life balance, had heard of this Millenial chef who wanted to prioritise the things she truly enjoys, such as cooking, recipe development and helping people to bond over shared culinary experiences. And so your gull happily flew over to peck at the windows. Spotting a cheffing certificate from Ireland’s Ballymaloe Cookery School on Lauren’s kitchen wall, your intrepid bird spent a fine Sunday afternoon pecking at the exquisite leftovers, particularly enjoying Lauren’s home brews for a little winter well-being boost.
Over in Portland Road, your gull’s sticky beak happened upon a renovation at The Spice Circuit where Kanthi Thamma, the former Chilli Pickle chef and co-founder of Palmito, has just opened the smallest restaurant in town. At the back of a cocktail bar, he invites just four people to a South Indian feast at a table in his kitchen, a home from home. Cracking open the idea that South Indian food is all about dosas, each menu represents his best finds from the five different states in south of India, each with completely different cuisines. The Jaffna black pork, a rich and fragrant slow-cooked curry with black pepper, coconut vinegar and pandan combined with dark roasted curry powder from Sri Lanka is a gull favourite, and also available from Uber Eats.
Hopping on a thermal to West Sussex, your gull finds herself at home at Four. Tucked away in his own home in residential Worthing, former Smoking Goat chef and single dad, Aaron Dalton is putting food on his own table while his kids sleep upstairs. Your gull followed the aromas of local mackerel and Sussex beef to peck at the windows of his purpose-built kitchen with gull-friendly outside smoke-house and barbecue, and to taste some of the locally sourced slow braised, home-smoked dishes she’s scavenged.
As your bird glides home, the sun sets on a glassy sea. The curtains are closed early across town but for a food fan, it’s going to be a cosy few months ahead.
The Whistler 