
The winter skies may be as grey as a gull, but life is looking up for your food loving scavenger as she roots around the bins of some of the latest openings in town.
Just a stone’s throw for her own roof top in West Hill, Patio is a new wine bar on the corner of Upper Gloucester Road and Surrey Street from Luke Williams of Vine Street Tap fame and Nathan Moseby of The Joker and The Geese. A carousel of excellent guest chefs each month are playing with delicious pickings sourced from the best local producers, growers, farmers and food hubs (Shrub, for example) with wines from local Titch Hill. Its opening menu of Jersey oyster, lemon and dulce mignonette, mussel escabeche, toast and lardo, liver parfait, heart skewer, cornichon and rosemary, finished with Brillat Savarin honey toast meant little leftovers to rifle through, but says much about how this cool little wine bar is setting out its intentions.
When news of the opening of Mare, the new Brazilian-Italian culinary adventure from Rafael Cagali in Church Road, Hove reached your gull, she hit a thermal and sped straight down to the back of its kitchen to tuck into the discarded native lobster claw tartlet with ginger and caviar, the leftover salt baked beetroot, mackerel and chervil, the bits of carabineros prawns and peppers with Moqueco sauce, and morcels of choux bun with fig leaf ice cream and fresh figs. The bill is enough to make a bird caw, but Cagali’s rep as chef/owner of two Michelin starred Da Terra, and career which has taken him through The Fat Duck to Simon Rogan’s Fera, is a welcome elevation to Hove’s growing food scene.
Flat Iron, London’s latest mass market foodie gift to Brighton opened last month to queues around the block as news flew of free beef being passed along to waiting open mouths like baby gulls in a cliff-top nest. But in a week of new openings in Ship Street, your gull let the crowds eat steak and tottered to Taro, a less assuming new Japanese to peck at its bento boxes, freshly made sashimi and warming bowls of ramen.
Staying with the taste of Asia, she hopped to Namo, the new grown-up Thai nurtured at The Eagle, and now standing proudly on its own. Already featured in BBC Good Food’s 20 Best Places to Eat and Drink in Brighton, your gull predicts that this one will fly.
But as with every bird, what comes up must also come down. And it’s with a heavy feathered heart that the news reached your Gull about the closing of The Set, her favourite restaurant for so many years when it held court in the Artist’ Residence Hotel in Regency Square. Its current home at Café Rust is where the Gull family will be for Christmas dinner, picking at the fried chicken with gravy & trimmings which include Aligot, merguez stuffing, creamed mustard cabbage & butter roasted maple roots, a glorious finale from Dan Kenny, one of Brighton’s chef legends. Great Uncle Gulliver still regales the teen gulls with his tales of the rich bin pickings at the back of Dan’s house in Ho Chi Minh city where he lived for two years before moving to Brighton to work at the Gingerman.




